Hangzhou

There is a Chinese proverb that says: "Above there is heaven; below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou." Of the two, Hangzhou is the more dramatic. Its centrepiece is West Lake — a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of causeways, temples, pagodas, and willow-lined shores that has inspired Chinese poets, painters, and emperors for over a thousand years. The Song Dynasty Emperor Qianlong reportedly visited six times and declared it the most beautiful place in his empire. It remains, without argument, one of the loveliest urban landscapes in the world.

Hangzhou is just 45 minutes from Shanghai by high-speed train, making it one of the most popular day trips and weekend escapes in China. But it deserves more than a day. Beyond West Lake, the city offers Longjing (Dragon Well) tea plantations in the surrounding hills — producing China's most celebrated green tea — the extraordinary Lingyin Temple complex, and the Grand Canal waterfront at Gongchen Bridge. The China National Tea Museum and the National Silk Museum both illuminate industries that have defined the region for millennia.

Modern Hangzhou is also the home of Alibaba, one of the world's largest technology companies, and has become a major innovation hub. The city's prosperity shows — it is clean, well-maintained, and has excellent infrastructure. But the pace around West Lake remains refreshingly gentle, and it is still entirely possible to find quiet corners of the lake even in peak season.

Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport (HGH) is located about 30 kilometres from central Hangzhou (45–60 minutes by taxi or airport bus). Metro Line 1 connects the airport to the city centre. Direct flights serve most major Chinese cities and some international destinations.

By high-speed train, Hangzhou is exceptionally well-connected. From Shanghai: 45 minutes (G-train from Shanghai Hongqiao). From Beijing: 5.5 hours. From Guangzhou: 5 hours. From Nanjing: 1.5 hours. Hangzhou East Railway Station is the main high-speed hub, connected to central Hangzhou by metro.

Staying near West Lake is the priority for most visitors. The Shuguang Road and Nanshan Road area on the eastern and southern shores offers the best combination of lake access, restaurants, and transport. The Lingyin area (northwest) is quieter and closer to the tea plantations.

For a special stay, the Amanfayun resort is built within a restored ancient village near Lingyin Temple — one of the most atmospheric hotels in China. The Banyan Tree Hangzhou on the lake shore and Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake offer luxury with direct lake views.

West Lake is free to enter and best explored on foot, by bicycle, or by electric boat. Hire bicycles at multiple points around the lake (¥20–30 per hour, or free with a deposit at some stations using the public bike system). A full circuit of the lake by bike takes about 2 hours at a leisurely pace.

For Longjing tea, take a taxi or bus to the Longjing Village area in the hills southwest of the lake. Tea picking season (late March to early April) is when the first flush of leaves is harvested — the most prized and expensive. Many plantations allow visitors to pick tea and observe the roasting process. Buy directly from the plantation rather than from shops near the lake where prices are inflated.