Chongqing

Chongqing is the city that surprises everyone. Perched on steep hillsides at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers, it is a city of dramatic topography — no flat ground, no bicycles, and a metro system that passes through buildings and crosses rivers on elevated tracks. With a municipality population of over 30 million, it is technically the world's largest city by administrative area, though the urban core is considerably more compact.

The defining feature of Chongqing is vertical energy. Old stilt houses cling to cliffs. Neon signs cascade down hillsides at night. Escalators and cable cars serve as public transport between levels of the city. The famous Hongya Cave — a complex of stacked restaurants and shops built into a cliff face above the river — has become one of China's most photographed urban scenes, particularly stunning after dark when it blazes with coloured lights reflected in the water below.

Chongqing is also the undisputed capital of Chongqing hot pot — a fiercer, oilier, more intensely spiced version of the Sichuan variety, eaten at a communal table over a bubbling pot of chilli-red broth. The city takes its hot pot more seriously than anywhere else in China, and eating it here — ideally in a riverside restaurant at night, with the city lights reflected on the Jialing below — is one of those travel experiences that lodges permanently in the memory.

For most international visitors, Chongqing is also the embarkation point for Yangtze River cruises through the Three Gorges — one of China's great natural spectacles.

Chongqing Jiangbei International Airport (CKG) is one of China's busiest airports, with extensive domestic connections and international routes across Asia. The airport is connected to the city centre by metro Lines 10 and 3 (40–50 minutes, ¥8–10). Taxis cost around ¥80–100.

By high-speed train, Chongqing connects to Chengdu (1.5 hours — one of the most frequently served routes in China), Xi'an (3.5 hours), Guiyang (1.5 hours), and Wuhan (4 hours). Chongqing North Railway Station and Chongqing West Railway Station are the main high-speed hubs.

The Jiefangbei (Liberation Monument) area in the Yuzhong peninsula is the traditional centre — well-connected, close to Hongya Cave, and surrounded by dining and shopping. The Nanbin Road area along the southern bank of the Yangtze offers excellent river views and has good restaurants. For Yangtze cruise embarkation, hotels near Chaotianmen Dock are convenient.

Chongqing's terrain makes navigation unusual. Google Maps or Amap show 2D routes that don't account for the city's multi-level reality — you may need to take escalators, lifts, or overpasses to cover what looks like a short distance on the map. Embrace the verticality rather than fighting it.

The Hongya Cave area is best visited after dark (from around 7pm) when the lights are at their most spectacular. Arrive via the riverside walkway for the best photographic angles. It is very crowded on weekends.

For hot pot, ask your hotel to recommend a local spot — the famous chains (Little Swan, Dezhuang) are good but local neighbourhood restaurants are often better. Tell the restaurant your spice tolerance: 微辣 (wēi là, mild), 中辣 (zhōng là, medium), or 特辣 (tè là, very spicy).