Xi'an

Xi'an is where Chinese civilisation began. As the eastern terminus of the Silk Road and the capital of thirteen imperial dynasties — including the Qin, Han, and Tang — this city shaped China more profoundly than any other. Its most famous resident is the Terracotta Army: 8,000 life-size clay soldiers buried with the first Emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, over 2,200 years ago. Discovered by farmers in 1974, it is one of the greatest archaeological finds in human history and alone justifies the journey to Xi'an.

But the Terracotta Army is just the beginning. Xi'an's ancient city walls — the most complete surviving city walls in China — form a 14-kilometre ring around the old city centre, wide enough to cycle along the top. Inside the walls, the Bell Tower and Drum Tower anchor the old city. To the northwest, the Muslim Quarter (Huimin Jie) is one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in China: a labyrinth of alleys packed with street food stalls, mosques, and the sights and sounds of Xi'an's Hui Muslim community, who have lived here for over a thousand years.

Xi'an is also one of China's great food cities. The local cuisine — anchored by lamb skewers, roujiamo (Chinese burger), biang biang noodles, and persimmon cakes — is distinct from both northern and southern Chinese cooking, reflecting its position as a crossroads of cultures. The Muslim Quarter is the best place to eat, and evening is the best time to do it.

Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (XIY) is located about 40 kilometres northwest of the city centre. The Airport Shuttle Bus (Line 1) runs to the city centre (Bell Tower area) for ¥30 and takes 60–90 minutes depending on traffic. Taxis cost approximately ¥120–150. Metro Line 14 connects the airport to Xi'an North Railway Station.

By high-speed train, Xi'an is connected to Beijing (4.5 hours on the G-train from Beijing West Station), Shanghai (6–7 hours), Chengdu (3.5 hours), and Zhengzhou (2 hours). Xi'an North Railway Station (西安北站) is the main high-speed rail hub, located north of the city centre and connected to the city by Metro Line 2. Xi'an Railway Station (西安站) is the older station inside the city walls, handling conventional and some slower trains.

Staying inside or immediately outside the city walls puts you within walking distance of the Bell Tower, Muslim Quarter, and the main historical sites. The area around the Bell Tower (Zhonglou) and South Gate (Nan Men) has the best concentration of hotels across all price ranges. The Muslim Quarter itself has guesthouses and boutique hotels for a more immersive stay.

For budget travellers, the area around Xi'an Railway Station has affordable hostels. Mid-range options cluster near the Bell Tower. Luxury hotels include the Sofitel Xi'an on Renmin Square and the Rosewood Xi'an (near the Tang Paradise area).

Book Terracotta Army tickets in advance — queues at the gate can be very long, and tickets occasionally sell out during peak season (Chinese national holidays). The site is about 45 minutes east of central Xi'an by metro (Line 9 to Huaqingchi, then bus) or taxi.

The Muslim Quarter is best visited in the evening when street food stalls are fully open and the atmosphere is at its peak. Watch for lamb skewers fresh off the grill, freshly pulled noodles, and the famous roujiamo — often called China's original burger. Vegetarians will find the Muslim Quarter more accommodating than most Xi'an restaurants.

Xi'an city walls are best experienced at sunrise or sunset. Bicycle hire is available at the South Gate and several other gates — a full circuit of the walls takes about 2 hours by bike. Entry to the walls is ¥54.